Stepstool with Storage!

DIY Childs Step Stool with Storage!

Cheap, sturdy and will last ages!

 

Something as simple as a step stool can open a whole new experience for children(or short adults lol). Things that seemed out of reach is now easily accessible with a simple build like this. Now, washing their hands, brushing their teeth or just watching us make food has never been easier and more fun for our little tykes. The storage compartment is just an added bonus. 

What You'll Need:

-Drill with 1/2" drill bit

-Jigsaw

-2" Wood Screws

-Medium-grit Sand Paper

-Wood Glue

-Clamps

-Circular/Table Saw

-2 Standard Hinges

-Paint (optional)

All this can be made with a 1"x12"x8' piece of pine board which around here is only $20.00

Pieces List: 

2 sides at natural width of board at 11-1/4" and cut length 14"
2 storage panel pieces (front and back) at 11-1/4" and width 12"
2 storage box bottoms and kick panel pieces at 11-1/4" and 5-1/4"
2 step stool tops 14" width and 7-1/2" length

Step 1: Mark the Cuts

Using a square mark all your cuts on the wood carefully including the holes for the handles and the decorative curves.

Step 2: Cut It All Up!

 If you're good with a jigsaw you should be able to cut everything out with just that. Sadly I am not so I used a circular saw for all my straight cuts and then used a jigsaw for the holes and curved pieces.

Note: To make the circles the easiest way I find is to drill a hole a bit bigger than the jogsaw blade so it'll fit and then just cut out your shape.

Step3: Time For Sanding!

Using a Medium grit sandpaper (I used an 80 grit) sand all your corners and edges. This will be used by children after all. After this is done, dry fit all the pieces together to make sure all is well. If you need to make adjustement, now is the time. If everything seems fine let's put this baby together!

Step 4: Assemble back, sides and base.

The first thing I suggest doing is attaching the back piece to the side pieces. I always pre-drill my holes to make sure the wood doesn't split so I would suggest the same practice. Place glue on both pieces(any surface that will be touching each other) and then screw them into place and clamp for at least an hour. Once the side are attached to the back, next assemble the base of the storage area.

Should look like this at that point

Step 5: Adding the Middle Wall and Kick Panel

This piece is exactly like the back piece but I suggest adding a curve to it just to make it easier to open and looks nice. Once it has been secured the next piece I would recommend is the kick panel on the front.

Step 6: Top Step with Hinges.

Mark your hinges on the wood to make sure they're even. Mine were spaced 2 1/2" away from the side and fit perfectly on the 3/4" surface. Follow instructions that come with hinges if you need help but basically, mark where they go and screw em in. Once they're in check for adjustments. (one of my hinges needed the be pushed back a bit because it was making the lid crooked)

Step 7: The Final Step!

Probably the most straight for piece in the build. Add, glue & screw. That's about it!

We're Done! 

Enjoy your new Step Stool! Your kids are sure to love it. If you want you can even sand, prime and paint cute stuff on it or what have you =)

Thanks for dropping by =)

Handy Dandy Stackable Sawhorses

 DIY STACKABLE SAWHORSES

 I would just like to start off by saying thank you for visiting my blog all about woodworking! I will be posting tutorials, projects I'm currently working on, tips & tricks and all sorts of other things!

First I would like to start with my first project which in essence will lead to many more completed projects in the future. As far as I'm concerned EVERY work shop needs these...sawhorses!

This is sortof a DYI tutorial on how to make them as well as just showing my project. Here we go:

Exactly why I'm building these. Cutting wood out of a trunk in winter sucks lol

I used nine 8 foot 2x4's. -Take 5 of the 2x4's and cut them at 47". This should leave you with 5 47" pieces and 5 49" pieces (assuming your 8footers are very close to 96") -now you want to take 4 of your 8 footers and cut 8 32" pieces(you should be able to get 3 per piece but mine were about 1/8th" under 96" so only got 2 exact 32" per board with decent sized scraps)

Next, we'll assemble the I-Beam as shown above, starting with the three 49-inch boards. On the ends of two of the boards, mark a centerline across the short axis of each end. When those four marks are in place, mark a centerline down the long axis at each end of the third board, as shown by the center board in the diagram. Now, using the screws, attach the top board to the center board. Place a few screws down the length of the top board and into the center board, making certain to keep the centerlines on both ends aligned. When the top board is attached to the center board, flip the assembly over and attach the bottom board in the same manner. When complete, you should have a long I-Beam. *repeat same process for the 47" boards to make that Ibeam*

we'll work with the 49-inch assembly. Lay the I-Beam on it's side. Grab one of the legs and place the end just under the lip of the top board of the I-Beam. Making sure that the side of the board is flush with the end if the I-Beam, attach the leg to the I-Beam using two screws into the center board and two into the bottom board of the I-beam. Once one leg is done, repeat with the other leg on the same side of the I-Beam. Then, flip the entire assembly over and attach the legs to the other side of the I-Beam. 

When all four legs are attached, stand the assembly on it's legs and check for any wobble. The legs can be spread out slightly by hand if necessary for all legs to be on the floor evenly. Once the 49-inch I-Beam assembly is completed, perform the same steps on the 47-inch I-Beam. Once both units are standing on their own four feet, its time to stabilize the legs. Once again, we'll begin with the 49-inch assembly. Cut two 49-inch pieces from two 2x4's. (Save the cutoffs, as they'll be used in another step.) Using the tape measure, place a mark 10 inches up each of the four legs on their outsides. Square the mark using the Layout Square. Attach one of the two cut pieces to the two legs on one side of the assembly, aligning them just on top of the square marks and with the ends of the boards flush with the sides of the legs. Repeat on the other side. Two screws at each connection will suffice. 

Now that the 49-inch sawhorse assembly is completed, we'll turn our attention to the 47-inch assembly. Because the 49-inch assembly will stack on top of the 47-inch unit, we'll need to construct this one a bit differently. Notice, in the image above, that the side stringers for this unit are on the inside of the legs, as opposed to the outside on the other sawhorse. Otherwise, this step is the same. Make a mark 10-inches up each of the four legs, on the inside this time. Square the mark using the Layout Square. Trim the two cutoffs you retained from the last side stringers to 47-inches in length. Attach them as shown in the image, paying attention to stay on the top of the pencil lines and with the ends of the boards flush with the sides of the legs.

To finish the second sawhorse, we'll use a similar technique to the one we used on the first sawhorse. Notice the position of the end stringers in the image above. Place a piece of 2x4 on top of both side stringers overlapping the legs at the ends. Use the legs to scribe cut marks on the end stringers. Cut the two boards to the lines, and attach them to the legs with 2 screws on each attachment point.